Experiencing Mesa Verde in Winter Becomes the Upside to Falling
Some of the most profound journeys are the ones that deviate from our carefully crafted plans. While I don’t seek out tragedy or mishaps, there’s a subtle joy in surrendering to the flow of life and embracing unforeseen paths—a luxury rarely afforded in my meticulously organized existence. Although it took a concussion and a sprained ankle to steer us off course, exploring Mesa Verde in winter unexpectedly transformed our trip and infused it with a sense of fulfillment.
Before delving into the wonders of Mesa Verde, it’s essential to understand how we arrived there. Not just the literal routes we traversed, but the sequence of events that led us to this decision and itinerary. Our initial plan, as you already know, revolved around an ice climbing excursion in Utah and Colorado, peppered with moments of family bonding. My husband Marc and I eagerly anticipated scaling frozen waterfalls and carving fresh ski tracks. However, an unexpected snowstorm had heightened avalanche risks at our primary destination, prompting us to modify our plans. Consequently, we found ourselves coaxing my mom into her inaugural (and likely final) ice climbing expedition with us.
This detail holds significance because my mom happened to be present during two of my most significant climbing falls. Now, I’m not assigning blame, but if anyone were to bear responsibility, it might as well be her. All jokes aside, no mother needs additional reasons to fret every time her child embarks on a climbing adventure.
When Marc and I climb together, he seldom—if ever—takes a significant fall. As a more adept climber, he rarely pushes his limits when I’m following. On ice climbing expeditions, Marc never falters. After all, isn’t avoiding falls the cardinal rule of ice climbing? The Incident
The ice glistened invitingly, and the route loomed ominously overhead. Positioned at the optimal belay spot, I secured myself to a tree, mindful of the potential consequences should Marc falter. Marc appeared composed and adept, meticulously placing ice screws before reaching a resting ledge. As he paused to recuperate, I waited expectantly. However, a subtle unease crept over me as I observed his demeanor. Normally steadfast in his resolve, Marc seemed apprehensive—an unusual sight, given his typically unshakeable mental fortitude.
Eventually, Marc resumed his ascent, aiming to surpass his last ice screw. A few feet from the summit, he hesitated, deliberating whether to secure another screw. In that fleeting moment, I realized my misinterpretation of the situation. Marc wasn’t anxious; he was fatigued. His muscles strained, and his desire to complete the climb was palpable.
In an instant, he reached out with his ice tool, his weight shifting precariously. Suddenly, his footing gave way, hurtling him towards an impending collision with the ledge below. I watched in horror as the events unfolded with startling swiftness. Helplessly tethered to the tree, I recoiled as Marc plummeted towards the ground, his crampon snagging on the sling attached to the ice screw, causing him to somersault mid-air. Time seemed to both accelerate and grind to a halt as I witnessed the harrowing scene unfold before me. Then, abruptly, I was jolted upwards, my knee colliding with an object before halting abruptly, arrested by my anchor to the tree. Miraculously, Marc’s descent halted mere feet from the precipice, but not before his head collided with the unforgiving terrain. Frozen in shock, I awaited a response, fearing the worst.
“Lower me,” came the terse command, jolting me back to reality. Hastily, I complied, ushering Marc to safety. Once on solid ground, I made a frantic dash towards him, only to be forcibly restrained by my tether to the tree. During our trek back, I found myself repeatedly querying Marc’s name, each repetition an attempt to assuage my mounting dread. A subsequent visit to the emergency room revealed the extent of his injuries: a mild concussion, a sprained ankle, and a bruised wrist. Marc’s mangled crampon and fractured helmet bore testament to the severity of the ordeal. I could only imagine the toll it had taken on his confidence, knowing full well the profound impact it had on mine.
Suddenly, our adventurous escapade metamorphosed into a leisurely sightseeing sojourn. With Marc nursing a sprained ankle, our aspirations for vigorous hikes and adrenaline-fueled escapades were curtailed. Yet, if there’s a silver lining to be gleaned from adversity, it’s the impetus to pause, reflect, and savor life’s quieter offerings. Exploring Alternatives
Amidst our altered plans, Mesa Verde National Park emerged as a compelling destination. Although our visit primarily centered on the park’s more accessible cliff dwellings, we harbored aspirations of returning to explore the remote, less frequented sites via snowshoeing expeditions. Little did we realize that Spruce Tree House, one of the park’s iconic landmarks, would soon be shuttered indefinitely due to the looming threat of rockfall.
Nevertheless, there was a certain allure to exploring Mesa Verde in the winter months. With dwindling crowds, the park exuded an air of tranquility and solitude, allowing us to immerse ourselves fully in its rich history and natural splendor. While most of the year permits self-guided tours, our winter visit afforded us the opportunity to join one of the park’s guided tours—an experience that added depth and nuance to our exploration. As Marc hobbled along the trail, we marveled at the majestic cliff dwellings, grateful for the chance to partake in this enriching journey.
Our sojourn in Mesa Verde sparked a newfound fascination with the cliff dwellings of the Southwest. The intricate architecture, the enigmatic way of life, and the awe-inspiring natural beauty captivated our imaginations, weaving a narrative that transcended time. Subsequently, we embarked on a pilgrimage to numerous archaeological sites, from Canyon de Chelly to Chaco Canyon, each offering a glimpse into the region’s rich cultural tapestry. As we navigated the delicate balance between exploration and conservation, we pledged to impart this profound appreciation for history and heritage to our children, ensuring that these sacred sites endure for generations to come.